Sunday 13 March 2011

Paradise, also called Raratonga

NB Photos on next blog if we can manage this, the internet here is difficult.

Today is 'Ground Hog Day' We are having the 8th March twice! Yesterday's 8th March was in Auckland and today's 8th March is in Rarotonga in the Cook islands. Last night we crossed the International Date Line so we have two Tuesdays, now how strange is that? The sad bit is that going back it will then cost us a day so we will completely lose a beautiful day in paradise.


Landing in the airport in Rarotonga was a surreal experience. Whilst waiting to go through passport control, which I have to say was somewhat cursory and just going through the motions, I could hear music in the background. When I got to the front of the queue where I could see the carousel with our luggage, I realised where the music was coming from. Stood in the middle of the carousel, on a sort of stage with all the luggage trundling around his feet, was a chap, aged in his sixties, I would guess, with a microphone, a straw hat decorated with flowers, hawiian shirt, playing the ukelele and singing a selection of 60s numbers! I learned later that he has been welcoming people on to the Island in this way for years. I should have been prepared for something odd and different. When we were on the plane, we were handed our entry forms which asked who we are and are we bringing anything dodgy into the country. Usually these are very starchy, formal documents. This one, however, had a formal bit which you tore off but the rest of the document was advertising fudge and a sarong you could tie a hundred different ways! (I have bought one, need to practice).

The airport is cosy and intimate (tiny) so we soon found the taxi sent to transport us to our villa. The first thing was a lay of frangipani and another heavenly flower was put around my neck and we were taken to our villa. We are so happy, the villa is perfect. I am sat on our verandah, just about four steps to the sand and another twenty to the lagoon. About 100 yards away across the lagoon is a coral reef where the waves break and crash in the distance and look impressive; a foaming white line tumbling against the reef. The water at our feet just gently laps the sand and is warm and so inviting. Between us and the water are a couple of fir trees and coconut palms, one of which bends down and lies across the sand, just like in the holiday brochure advertisements. We have sun beds, a couple of kayaks, wonderful views, sunshine, peace and quiet and we don't have to pack up and move every day. Could anything be more perfect?

This morning we met one of our neighbours, an Islander who lives just behind us. Her name is Liana and her two year old daughter is called Lady. We struck up a conversation whilst soaking in the water and later, while we had our lunch, she arrived back with a huge bowl full of pawpaw, star fruit, and bananas straight out of her garden - it just added to the perfection.

OK, now off to laze on a sun bed for a while and read my book! Aah yes!

Later: Having dusted off a bit of sand I'm ready to add a bit more to the blog.

We saw a notice in the local shop saying 'I'm no longer skinny dipping I'm chunky dunking' and that is just what I have been doing. The weather continues to be perfection so the sea is like a warm bath and the snorkling is wonderful. As it happens, the coral is not a lot to write home about but the variety of fish is superb. We have seen Angel fish, some stripy fish-shaped fish if you know what I mean, and some which look like a diamond shape cut in half. There are black ones, spotted ones and some with a line of spots along their back. In fact, there are all shapes and sizes and most of the colours of the rainbow. It is a magical kaleidoscope and all in water which is so shallow you could stand up anywhere.

There is a small island opposite our cabin, we have kayaked around to the far side of the Island and snorkeled there where the fish are more plentiful and just as entrancing. For the inexperienced at both kayaking and snorkeling, this has to be the perfect place because of the warm shallow water and everything being so close to the beach.

Even in Paradise we have to eat and we have bought all our provisions at the local shop, run by a Chinese guy from Shanghai who has been here 12 years. He calls John 'Uncle' and me 'Auntie' and makes comments on everything we buy. So far he hasn't disapproved of any of our purchases but then I don't suppose he would as he is selling them. He tell us he is going back to Shanghai next year, to see how the building of his house is coming along. He really has adopted us as his uncle and aunt and has invited us to visit his home ( I have a funny feeling he invites everyone!)

You may be aware that floods, earthquakes and cyclones have followed us where ever we have gone and last night, true to form, we had another extreme weather condition to add to our experience. We were in bed, just after midnight, when the phone went. It was Ina, the manager of the cabins, telling us there had been a major earthquake in Japan and official warnings were out that a Tsunami would hit our shores at 6.30 in the morning. We were to switch on the radio and listen to the news and follow the instructions to get to high ground if necessary. Thinking back, we had seen signs along the road saying 'Tsunami evacuation route' but had not taken a lot of notice. All of a sudden, living on the beach, these became very interesting. So, following instructions, we listened to the news which told us that the quake in Japan was over 8 points on the richter scale - a really big one. We looked at where Japan is on our map and John worked out how far it is, a considerable distance that allayed our fears somewhat. Needless to say we did not get a lot of sleep, John kept setting the alarm to wake up and catch the latest news. Fortunately 6.30 came and went and brought no Tsunami. Not a night I want to repeat.

We have hired a car for a couple of days and have been buzzing around the Island. It is only 32km round and the road is primarily just around the perimeter. We have hired an MP3 player with a map of Rarotonga and the major sights are explained on the audio. It really is a good way to see the Island completely at ones own pace, it is quite informative and good fun finding all the named places.
Tomorrow we are off to the market which is the high spot of Island life and, of course, we will let you know what this is like.
Later: Well the Market is just what you imagine a market was like in England tens of years ago. Most of the shops shut as they know everyone is going to the market and shop traders, so as not to lose business, will take a stall in the market too. There was everything from the humble vegetable stall to the most intricate handicrafts. There were cooked goods and stalls selling snacks. It seems to be a regular Saturday social event for the islanders and many attend to meet up with their friends, catch up on news and eat together. We had been told about a local speciality called Poki which is commonly banana or can be another fruit, we also saw papaya, which has been cooked with starch, probably taro and is coated in coconut cream. To look at, it is rather off putting as the banana turns dark brown with being cooked but the taste is delicious, all sweet, gooey and rich - so only in small doses then.

I am saving the best bit until last! In the centre of the market is a raised covered area like a bandstand and on this 'stage' was a master of ceremonies who, in the early part of the morning, was encouraging everyone to sample the wares of all the stalls. We were just about to leave when on the stage came a group of musicians with the drums and ukeleles which are traditional to the Islands and with them came some dancers from one of the northern Islands called Puka Puka. They were all in traditional costume; the women with coconut shell bras and grass skirts with what can only be called a bussle of leaves and feathers, the men were equally exotically dressed with grass skirts and grass garters around their legs and elaborate head dresses. They performed some of the Puka Puka traditional dances. Both the women and the men were amazingly sexy and all the audience were getting hot under the collar, the women being the most vocal in their appreciation of the male dancers.

Now the best bit, guess who was dragged up to dance with one of these sexy ladies, yes, you have guessed it John. He dragged his heels for split second but what man could resist the sight of those wiggly hips wiggling in his direction, certainly not JP who claims that his examination of his partners coconuts was purely to do with the physics regarding how they managed to stay in place. I share with you the photographic evidence of this event.

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