So this is the final episode of the blog, what have I got so say? Well .. I picked up a shell on the beach today and carried it back to the cabin, very taxing, had to recover by putting up my feet and reading a book for a while. It feels like a holiday at the end of a holiday marathon. Raratonga in the Cook Islands has to be one of the most tranquil places on the planet, the pace of life is just a little faster than stop and, according to one of the locals, there is no unemployment and very little crime. Apparently they once had a bank robbery but in an Island which is 32 kilometres round the robbers had nowhere to hide - duuuh!.
The Cook Islands are scattered widely over the Pacific Ocean, the furthest is more than four hours away by plane - New Zealand is closer. It would be a wonderful experience to travel the Islands and that is what we have been musing about, perhaps one day...
However, intrepid as we are, we have travelled - we've been into the main town a couple of times, once in our hire car and again on the bus. There are two buses an hour during the day, one clockwise and one anti-clockwise. As there is only one main road and that just hugs the coast line round the Island, the bus doesn't deviate from this road. There are regular stops but those appear to be merely incidental as the bus can be flagged down to get on and off wherever you want. With a maximum speed limit of 50 km/h everywhere there is very little hustle and bustle and as people mainly use motor scooters, the roads are virtually empty, there are no traffic lights and only one roundabout, actually that is not totally accurate as down one of the side roads there is a stone to commemorate the first Christian preacher on the Island in 1823. It is in the middle of this back road so I suppose you could call it a roundabout. The town itself is minute, just one main street which you can walk the length of in a few minutes. Yesterday we stopped and had a fruit smoothy (custard apple, banana, papaya and coconut milk - how exotic!). We stopped for a chat, as you do, and the woman who owned the cafe also painted pictures inspired by the Island, like a lot of things here they were going for a song, about £10 each and are a wonderful memory of this Island.
Further along we found a woman selling local fish and bought some 'Wahoo'. It was truly delicious and it only cost £4 but there was so much we couldn't eat it all in one sitting. We had been told by someone in NZ that you needed a fat wallet to come to Raratonga, that may be true if you want to spend your time in one of the Spas or out drinking (though I am not sure where you would go). Our experience is quite the opposite, live simply and it is inexpensive. We were having a moan about the internet being both difficult and expensive but when you consider you are on a remote Island in the middle of the Pacific, that is perhaps understandable.
One day we hired snorkels but as we can't keep out of the water, we have now bought our own. The lagoon is like swimming in an aquarium and even the fish seem friendly. The water is so warm it feels like being in a bath and doesn't evoke even the smallest intake of breath as you lower your shoulders into the water - wonderful.
Talking of friendly, It is not just the people and the fish, it is also the dogs. There is a local group of dogs on the beach, 'pack' doesn't seem the right word to accurately describe them. Anyway, I'm sure they are all locally owned and they meet up each day on the beach. Their purpose in life seems to be to accompany people on their walks along the sand and this happens all day. You see someone walking along accompanied by three or four dogs and then half an hour later someone else walking in the opposite direction again with the dogs strolling along too. If the person should leave the beach, the dogs just lie down to await the next exerciser and when they appear it's heads up, tails wag and off we go again. The dogs are friendly and just seem to like the company, they don't seem to be after anything, just a bit of fun.
We have some lovely neighbours from Canada, Charles and Valerie. The four of us booked to go on an evening of history, food and entertainment called Highland Paradise. We were collected from the end of our road in a mini bus by a real joker of a driver, after collecting others we arrived at the top of a mountain to an ancient spot which was once occupied by one of the early tribes on the Island. The story of the tribe who occupied this space was told through acting out one of the rituals of gift giving that the tribe would have followed. At that time there were apparently three opposing tribes and this group who felt the most under threat took to the mountain but in the end had the strongest position as they were able to defend their position more successfully. Prior to Christiantiy coming to the Island the inhabitants practiced polygamy and also cannibalism believing that eating their enemies would enhance their strength. The land at the top of the mountain has only been partly cleared, a Marae (ancient temple)has been exposed and how this was used was explained. The stones were arranged in three layers, the King and his close advisers on the top, the next layer replicated the roles and status of our House of Lords and the lower the House of Commons. It was this King of the tribe at the top of the Island who first embraced Christianity and the other two tribes followed very quickly so within five years peace and harmony settled on the island. It is interesting the large part religion plays on the island. There is every denomination of Church you can think of represented from Jehovahs Witness through to Catholicism. The dance and culture of the islands is also evident and reflects their belief in God.
Prior to the meal, which was delicious, grace was said. After the meal there was a display of music and dance which was stirring stuff and through these mediums told the story of the devlelopment of the Cook Islands. The beating of the drums, is complex, we had an introduction to each of the drums the tones they make and how each one works with the next to achieve this overall sound which has melded into one vibrating, almost mesmerising, sound. Again there were the dancers with the grass skirts and hips which move in a way which must have been genetically programmed, my hips would never have been so fluid, and certainly are not now (had a brief wiggle in the privacy of the bathroom and it doesn't work!). The men were earthy and challenging in their dancing, very masculine and testosterone filled the air. A good evening for everyone.
One of the things that impressed us was that the whole evening was very much a family affair. Our bus driver was also one of the drummers, the master of ceremonies was also one of the actors in the early evening demonstration, it seems that everyone had at least one role in making the evening a success.
Our final time on the Island was spent just lazing on our deck, swimming in the clear warm waters, snorkling and feeling regretful that our time in paradise was coming to an end. This part of our time away really did feel like a holiday, we had the best weather in just about one of the best places on the planet. A perfect end to one of the most wonderful experiences of my life.
We asked ourselves if this whole trip had been a life changing experience. I don't think that is the case. What it has done is make me appreciate all the things that I have, I hope that doesn't sound "Miss World candidate" trite. We have been to the most incredible places and been able to see these at times from a real position of privilege. Many people have expressed envy at the fact that we are British and able to live freely in a society where there is structure and organisation, clearly missing in some countries of Asia. Similarily we have met people who have travelled widely and appreciate going back to live in the peace and tranquility of their home country. We have met fellow travellers who are like us on an adventure, some who seemed to be troubled and trying to escape something and others simply on vacation. My view of life and people has always been quite positive and this has been reinforced by the dignity and integrity of the lovely people we have met across a wide spectrum of cultures.
Travelling with John (my editor and contributor to this blog, goodness knows how long it would have been without him) has been the most wonderful experience and just brilliant and we are still talking so must have been good for him too! Thanks to those who made contributions either on the blog or by E Mail it is good to know that our travels have given pleasure to you too. No piccys this time, going to bore you in person!
We just now want to get home to our friends and family, loved ones we have missed so much.
The End
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