Sunday 2 January 2011

Singapore

I was looking at Singapore as only a staging post on the way to Australia and felt that it would be difficult to find things to do for three days - how wrong I was. I am trying to think of adjectives to describe my impressions of the country; dramatic, organised, busy, amazing, designed, surprising but, more than anything else, it is bold. I suppose in many ways they started with a blank canvas and if it wasn't blank they made it so, perhaps some would say at the expense of some old buildings and history. That having been said, where they have retained old shophouses and buildings the renovation has been done to a very high standard and it shows how some of the shophouses in Georgetown could be renovated; retaining their character and showing them off to their best.

Some of the architecture in Singapore is stunning and tests your imagination of probability and possibility. Our guest house was in Little India, a courtyard hotel which we really liked. Our local bus stop was opposite the Art School, the building was just amazing a beautiful. The bus hub was surrounded by five buildings, clearly designed to complement each other and rose to the sky reflecting light and shadows all around. The most spectacular of all was the Marina Bay Sands, a series of three tower blocks joined at the top by a platform structure made to look like a liner. The whole complex is a holiday resort and the liner on top holds the swimming pool, park and other holiday attractions. We went up there of course. As non residents we had access to just one end, the end which projects 65m out from the building, rather scarey when you think about it. I think the picture gives you an idea but it as to be seen to be believed.

The view from the top of the Marina Bay Sands was spectacular. Not content with this view we also rode the Singapore Flyer which was modeled on the London Eye but bigger (as they kept telling us!). Again the views were fabulous and looking immediately down one could see the building taking place for the City park which looks as if it is going to have large glazed dome structures, something along the lines of the Eden Projet. One thing is for sure and that is that it is going to be sensational.

A friend had said we should have afternoon tea in Raffles, we just couldn't fit this in but did compromise with lunch (delicious) and a Singapore Sling (bit too sweet for my taste). Raffles Hotel is the epitome of luxury and excellence and expense! Just a taste of this did make me wish that we'd won the lottery just so we could have the experience as it just oozed timless beauty and elegance. There is a touchingly personal Raffles museum which holds letters, mementos and memorabilia which have been given or loaned for display, so we can all have a peek into life in Singapore Raffles in its hey day. We loved it.
Across the road from Raffles is a place called 'Chijmes' which was once the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus and a school. The land being owned by the Government, the nuns were apparently moved out to the suburbs. The wonderful old buildings were then renovated and turned into boutiques and food outlets. Apparently it's very lively at night but when we went it was deserted and we were left wondering how much the nuns really wished to move.
One of the thinga we'd heard about before we arrived in Singapore was the Night Safari at the Zoo - so were keen to go. It is a definite 'not to be missed' if you go to Singapore. Lots of animals usually rest during the day and it is an opportunity to see them awake and active by night. Beautifully done, it caters for huge numbers of visitors and one can go round on foot or by little land-trains. The queues for the trains were horrendous and as they went along they were noisy and full of chatter. Whereas, when walking along the jungle paths you are very often on your own , it's quiet and really atmospheric. We opted to walk round - the right decision I think. Again the Zoo has been designed with both animals and visitors in mind and it just works.
Most of our travels around around Singapore were by bus. They have these hop on / hop off city buses which do various routes and they have recorded voices describing some of the locations. It was a super way to see the place and to learn some of the history of the country, we felt like true tourists and loved it. A must in Singapore is Orchard Road which we were told was particularly spectacular for Christmas and they were quite right. The road is six kilometers long and is lined with huge trees, hanging from which were lovely baubles which lit up the night, there was a mass of tiny fairy lights in the trees and lights were draped across the road and hanging everywhere. This was all in a purple theme and just stunning. As if this wasn't enough there were huge Christmas trees everywhere and also all the decorations in individual shops, it was all so much but funnily enough not too much as,like everything else, it was tasteful.
On our final afternoon, we had the opportunity to step back in time by visiting the Chinese Heritage Museum. Small and in the middle of the Chinese quarter, it was very cleverly done. There are videos and recorded stories from residents of Chinatown who experienced untold hardships on their journeys from China and in their working and living conditions after arrival. From poor villages in mainland China, they had come to Singapore to improve their economic status and whilst I am sure many succeeded many also died on the journey or from hunger and deprivation once there. It was interesting and very moving and put the Country of today into some perspective - another 'not to be missed'.
As it turns out Singapore was an excellent staging post between Asia and Australia as it introduced us gradually back into a more 'English' way of life. The whole place was clean but not clinical, it felt organised without feeling restrictive (for us as tourists though I think some locals would disagree).
There is so much to do in Singapore and just walking around is in itself an experience. The architecture and design is mind-boggling, the plants and trees everywhere are just lovely, the people are friendly and helpful - I shall never forget one 'teksi' driver of chinese decent, who indeed had all the attributes of a Chinese person: spikey hair, high cheekbones, spare frame, etc; who with a loud voice regaled us with stories accompanied by the most incredible laugh which could shake buildings. He gave us ten minutes of unforgettable pleasure, he will never know.
As you can imagine I am going to say it again, but we loved Singapore!!

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