Friday 28 January 2011

The Limestone Coast to Adelaide

Before I start to tell you what we have been up to I shall just let you know where I am while I write this blog. I am sat on the deck of my cousin's house, the deck runs the whole length of the back of the house with a protruding square bit in the middle which has a table and chairs. The aspect from this deck is superb, overlooking a small valley with trees, paths and picnic areas, there are loads of colourful birds and a kangaroo was even spotted here the other day. The weather is just perfect, the sun is shining and there is a cool breeze so it is comfortable. I am very content.

But back to what we have been doing. On leaving Port Campbell we continued along the road which follows the coastline. It was a lovely journey with frequent stops to take in the views and to have a walk along deserted, beautiful but rather windy beaches. This is excellent surfing country and seems to be the pastime which all young people undertake as every beach has their resident surfers, or so it seems.

Our plan was to aim for Mount Gambier which is exactly where we eventually arrived. The journey saw the end of the large trees and forest to which we had become accustomed and the emergence of open pasture and managed farm land. Everything was much more parched and it was clear that they had not experienced the heavy rain that Queensland, NSW and Victoria had been suffering.

On the way we saw a cheese factory which was advertising tours and tastings and, to top it off, a museum and display of engines ... something for everyone! It was too much to resist and I was convinced I would be able to get the slice of cheese on toast I'd been longing for. Our view of what a new country Australia is was reinforced by our stroll around the museum, as several of the things on display were recognised by both John and I as things we had at home as children and one or two things we still use.

Hmmm! On reflection does this say something about the newness of Australia or about us as a pair of oldies???

After the museum we went into the restaurant for a coffee and the cheese on toast. Well, can you imagine a cheese factory restaurant which served just about everything but not cheese on toast. The young woman who was serving smiled at my dismay, took pity on me and said she would make me a slice. When it came, the cheese was indeed delicious but she wouldn't take any money for it. In lots of ways that sums up the Oz attitude, really laid back but also very friendly and kind.

If Mount Gambier is famous for anything it is its blue lake. Once we had settled ourselves into our motel, we made our way to the lake to see if it is true. I am amazed to say it is. There is some chemical reaction which takes place in the summer which turns the water a brilliant cobalt blue. Not reflection from the sky, the water is actually a deep, deep blue. The picture is a true reproduction of the colour, it is incredible.



This part of Australia has had volcanic activity and two lakes have formed in the crater; the blue lake and the adjoining one - which is not blue at all but green in colour and not as dramatic. Both lakes are set in the most beautiful parkland in the large bowl and we spent the whole afternoon wandering around, returning from time to time to check out that the water was still blue.

The underlying rock is limestone and presumably riven with caves. One place we visited was a sink hole where the roof of a large cave had collapsed leaving a large hole in the ground. The unusual thing about this one was that about 100 years ago a worthy citizen had created a wonderful secret garden within it. Fortunately, although the house was demolished fifty years ago, the council has restored the garden to something like its original self.

The whole area of Mount Gambier was quite lovely, the town was quite large and well set out and there was a tranquil but positive air about the place. Both John and I said it was a place where you could quickly feel at home and one of the more attractive places we had been to.

The following day it was heads down and drive to Adelaide however we couldn't resist a quick stop at the Tantanoola caves. We had been told they were quite splendid and indeed they were. They were not enormous but the stalagmites and stalactites were incredible. The cave had been discovered in the 1930s by a local boy out catching rabbits with his ferret, he popped the it down a hole and the ferret didn't come back. The boy excavated the hole and opened up the cave. He must have been quite a canny young fellow as he told no-one, took out a lease on the land and then started charging people entry to the cave. A good story.

We had told Barry and Yvonne (cousin and wife) that we would be at their house in Adelaide at about 4pm, we eventually arrived at about 5pm which we didn't think was bad going after 7000 kilometres. We had a wonderful welcome as my Aunt Margaret, cousin Ann and her partner Tom and daughter Emma and Tom's brother Kevin were all there to greet us. The following day Tom and Kevin went off to New Zealand for a week and the others went off to Queensland for five days leaving John and I in charge of the house and Champs, the beautiful white retriever.

We've had a fantastic few days, we have toured the Barossa Valley tasting wine - well John has as I was duty driver (but made up for it when we got home!), had a guided tour round Jacobs Creek winery and bought some delicious wine which is not sold in the UK, sadly.


We have also toured round the Adelaide Hills which are just lovely and where there are sweet little villages with very picture post card gardens, all have agapanthus which I think should be the national flower.

On the way back, we called in to see the Barossa Reservoir. Built a hundred years ago, it is not in itself remarkable. What makes it interesting is that it is a 'whispering wall'. The curve of the dam wall conducts sound so efficiently that one person standing at one end can chat comfortably with a person 150 metres away at the other. The sound seems to come from an unseen person 6ft away.

Of course we had to visit Adelaide and found it a modern, spacious and clean city with the usual relaxed atmosphere we have come to expect here. There is a marvellous central market which sells just about everything and could rival London's Borough Market in the quality and range of the produce, it was irresistable.
In the evening we went to Glenelg which is on the coast. There is a pier going out into the water, not exactly Southend but good fun to take a turn upon over the waves. And there are the most fabulous beaches but, oh, the wind, constantly blowing quite strongly it added a chill edge to the evening. We found this beachside tapas bar and had supper while we watched the sun setting. Splendid and, I have to say, a trifle romantic!

All the family return this evening, we have a couple more days here then it is off down the Murray River for five days on a boat..... more excitement, can't wait.,

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