SAPA
The train to Sapa was quite an experience, we shared out cabin with a couple from Singapore, the first time we had to share and it worked out OK. It laid one of my ghosts as I had been dreading sharing, it wasn't as bad as I thought it may be.
We arrived in Lao Cai at about 6am and got the bus up to Sapa which is about 20 miles. The beginning part of the journey was fine and the scenery was spectacular but as we progressed the cloud started to fall and we were then unable to see anything. It was also cold and damp which set the scene for all the time we were there. This was a real shame as the hotel we stayed in had wonderful views over a valley (or so we were told). Sapa was definately not our favourite place and I would advise anyone who thinks of going there to read up before hand. The only business in Sapa is tourism and mostly for people who want to trek. The whole of the small town is given over to hotels, restaurants and shops selling to the tourist trade. On top of this there is an army of women from ethnic tribes, all dressed in their national costume, who will not leave you alone and insist that you are going to buy some of their trinkets. They have a very small personal space and do not take 'no' for an answer. In the end I would have been quite rude had I known the local dialect for 'go away', or something similar.
We had a trip booked in the afternoon to the Silver Waterfall. Again this would have been spectacular in good weather, in the mist and rain it was a bit of trial. There are also hundreds of steps, at high altitude this is not for the faint hearted. Sadly the place was not being maintained and at one place where the steps had broken away there was a makeshift wooden bridge over the gap and the hand rail was missing, replaced by some twigs, a rather scarey experience. The guide insisted we walk over to the edge of the valley where we stood for about 5 minutes gazing at a water buffalo which was only a few feet away, the only thing we could see!
You may have gathered this was not a huge success. We had a trek to a local village planned for the following day. John and I had a pow-wow that evening and decided there was no way we were trekking through the mist just to be contronted by the local mafia selling us things. When the guide arrived we asked him to take us on a slow drive to Lao Cai lower down the mountain we could see the scenery, take some pictures and spend some time further down the mountain. I think he was quite relieved at this decision and I also think we may have done wonders for his opinion of the British as he now thinks we are not all mad, that some of us have a bit of common sense.
We rather liked Lao Cai, had a walk around, found a local market selling just about anything, including a leg of beef with the hoof still attached, rather disturbing, confirms vegetarianism.
Our train left Lao Cai at 8pm and was due to arrive in Hanoi at 4.30 in the morning. The timing was rather important as we had our first flight booked to leave the Airport at 6.30 with the check-in due to close 30 minutes before hand. We had been told that the drive to the airport took about 45 minute to an hour so we were concerned we may not make it. We had originally intended to take the train to Hue but there had been really bad floods and the line was washed away so for the first time we were taking a form of transport other than a train, amazing when you think you can go from Southbourne to Hanoi all by train.
In the end it was a tight squeeze, we arrived at the airport at 5.50, just in time to check in and jump on the plane to Hue.
At this point I have to say something about our agent in Hanoi. He arranged all our trips for us, at a much better price than anywhere else. he kept our luggace for us while we were in Halong Bay and Sapa, he met us at the station with our luggage at 4.30 in the morning and had a taxi waiting to take us to the airport. We would have no hesitation in recommending him to any of our friends. The company is called Viet Sail.