Beijing

The Hotel I had booked in Beijing was called the Double Happiness and what a prophesy that turned out to be. The place was just delightful. The reception staff were like little chirpy birds who could all speak wonderful English, one in particular, was self taught and keen to improve her vocabulary, she now refers to John as her 'Pedagog'. Our room was wonderfully chinese with a bed we had to climb into but with a lovely soft western mattress and snuggly duvets and pillows. The whole of the bed was draped in silk with tassels and tie backs, I felt a bit like a concubine lying there although John would have rather enlisted one of the reception girls for that role I think.
The hotel was a Courtyard hotel and situated in the middle of the Hutong so life just outside the door was really interesting. We spent our first afternoon just wandering around and taking in the atmosphere and in the evening went to a local restaurant. The menu was interesting to say the least. One could dine on donkey, pigs colon, chicken webs, snake and just about any other part of any animal you care to mention. We settled on fish and mushrooms. I have to say some of the fish was way outside any fish anatomy I have come across before and was rather a strange texture. We almost finished the bowl and thankfully our robust constitutions saved the day and we have remained fine.
Day two was spent exploring the Forbidden City. We had been there once before, about 10 years ago when we were with an organised tour. We both felt that we had only just skimmed the surface then and wanted to spend some more time looking around. Even spending the whole day there we just about explored half of it. To do the place some justice I think you need to spend at least four or five days looking at one section at a time. We do at least feel we have a much better idea about the use of the buildings and the history and intrigue behind those who lived there. Food was pretty ordinary on this day although we did make the dreadful mistake of paying sixteen pounds for pot of green tea!
The following day we went to the Lama Temple which was a reasonable walk from where we were staying. The Temple is Buddhist and we, along with hundreds of others, lit incense sticks to the Buddah. It was strangely moving and a rather spiritual experience so I offered some thoughts to Buddah which I hope will help one or two people who were very much in my thoughts at the time.
The afternoon was spent at the shops, mainly the Pearl Market...wonderful and irresistable. I now have added to my luggage some pearls but I don't mind the extra weight. The Pearl Market not only sells Pearls but also a whole range of things including electrical items, John lingered long by the Apple computer stall and had a rather wistful look as we left.
That evening we went to the night market, this is amazing and a must do if you go to Beijing. It is the most alive and vibrant place imaginable. The food stalls were selling the most amazing array of food, some of it rather sad like sea horses and some of it just yuckie like impaled scorpions on sticks which were waiting to be barbequed. Some of it was just totally delicious like steamed fish or meat dumplings, wonderful noodles and to finish off these banana doughnuts which were just to die for.
The market sold an incredible range of wonderful rubbish. If it was later in the trip I would have stocked up on so much but the thought of adding to our load was a real deterrent so we did resist.
The next day was our final morning in Beijing so guess where we went, back to the Pearl Market. John had brooded all evening about the lost opportunity at the 'Apple' stall. To cut a long story short we are now the owners of two iPhones, the latest model 4 for the princely sum of fifty pounds each. I wonder if they are the real thing???? Oh! forgot to mention John also has a Rolex watch for seven pounds, that just has to be genuine!
At 4pm we are at Beijing rail station for our train to Hanoi.
Just a few observations about Beijing. In 10 years the place has changed beyond all recognition. Replacing push bikes are electric bikes. There are of course still push bikes in evidence but the vast majority are now electric. Where there were dusty side walks there are now pavements everywhere. the Metro is so user friendly all the signage is in English as well as Chinese, it is also incredibly busy at all times of the day and night. We had one bus trip and that was in dual language too. People were unfailingly polite, helpful and smiley, a huge contrast to Moscow. Everyone we met wanted to practice their language skills and commonly people were competent if not fluent in English. They also brightened up when they knew we were English we were very well received. You have probably guessed, we loved Beijing.